To get to Sambor Prei Kuk, which, with over 100 temples in its midst, is home to the most extensive pre-Ankorian temple complex in Cambodia, you really have to want to get there. In a country noted for its bad roads, those leading to Sambor off Highway 6 are among the worst in the country. During the rainy season, when the road achieves the consistency of oatmeal, it’s often completely impassable except in a 4-wheel vehicle, otherwise getting bogged down may mean sleeping in the car overnight. Adding to the adventure, there are no road signs posted for 16 of the final 22 km of the trip. That said, a Global Positioning Satellite (GPS) unit will help you to get there using the instructions below, and this most interesting remote archaeological zone is a must-see, for its historical significance, as well as for the reason that it’s relatively unvisited, boasting an untravelled mystique not to be found in more popular sites, such as Angkor Wat.
Why you should go
It’s not all that often that you have important, extensive pre-Ankorean temples all to yourself, but you pretty much do at Sambor Prei Kuk, the present-day name for the capital city of Isanapura, which thrived under the reign of King Isanavarman I (c.610-c.635), and several other historical sites lying within the National Park grounds. Walking among the four sites which comprise the site, you’re likely to only run across a guide or two (hire one, it’s well worth it), a Japanese restoration team, and various caretakers and their children.
The temples, built of brick, laterite, and sandstone, are not the rival of Angkor Wat in ornamentation or grandeur, but reflect on an earlier day before Khmer power had achieved primacy over Southeast Asia, just as it was beginning to get its sea legs.
Layout of the site
There are several subsites to Isanapura, and a hiring guide is valuable, as all important sites are within easy walking distance, but easy to overlook if you’re not pointed in the right direction. The entire site is 6km east to west, 5 km north to south, and contains 17 small villages. The main sites comprising Sambor Prei Kuk are:
Prasat Sambor (Northern Group), Isanavaraman I’s main city, consisting of 51 temples. GPS Coordinates: N12° 52.328’, E105° 02.623’ . Here, at Temple N7, you’ll find the only octagonal temple at Sambor, under extensive restoration.
Prasat Tao (Central Group), also known as the ‘Lion Group’ for the impressive stone lions guarding the Lion Temple, at GPS Coordinates: N12° 52.053’, E105° 02.294’. This site was developed by Jayavarman II in the 9th century, and consists of 43 temples surrounded by an inner and outer wall, and featuring an impressive terraced stone pond, measuring 43x35 meters, and 5 meters deep, which can be found at GPS Coordinates: N12° 52.122’, E105° 02.368’. As is the case with much of Sambor Prei Kuk, temples and pedestals of structures have been upheaved by war activities, and are being painstakingly restored.
Prasat Yeai Poeun Group (Southern Group) consists of 35 temples enclosed in two sets of walls, located at GPS Coordinates: N12° 51.955’, E105° 02.590’ Although the S1 tower is the focal point for this group, we found the “Gopara” gateway, with an escutcheon featuring majestically-eroded likenesses of Hannuman and Durga, at GPS Coordinates: N12° 51.914’, E105° 02.469’, to be the most impressive structure in the group.
To get here
The best way to get to Sambor Prei Kik is to hire a car and driver. From Phnom Penh, it’s about a 4 hour drive. It’s best not to go during the rainy season, as the road becomes impassable except for 4 wheel drive vehicles and motorbikes. If you take the latter, you will arrive pretty much covered in mud. To get there, begin on Highway 6, then take Road 64 in the direction of Tbeng Meanchey, to Sambor Pre Kuk, located east of Highway 6 at GPS Coordinates: N12° 45.038’, E104° 54.358’ From there, the temple complex is 22 km away. There are no road signs for the first 16 km, so drive as follows, beginning by turning onto Road 64 at the junction of Highway 6:
1) Follow 64, then turn right at GPS Coordinates: N12° 46.697’, E104° 55.739’ (the turn is approx. 3.8km, and 18 minutes from Highway 64 turnoff) 2) Turn left at GPS Coordinates: N12° 46.479’, E104° 58.208’ (the turn is approx. 4.3 km, and 7 minutes from last turn). 3) Turn left at GPS Coordinates: N12° 47.967’, E104° 58.894’ (the turn is approx. 13.5km, and takes approximately 11 minutes from your last turn) 4) Turn right at GPS Coordinates: N12° 50.115’, E104° 59.864’ (The turn is approximately 13 minutes from your last turn. The sign here says “Atsu Village,” and in 6km, or approximately 10 minutes, you’ll continue past the “Tourist Information Office”(see warning below) and continue to the midst of Sambor Prasat (North Group), at GPS Coordinates: N12° 52.328’, E105° 02.623’, and park your car.
1) The “Tourist Information Office ” listed above, appears to have no function other than having a guest book. There are no maps, and the gentleman in the office requests a donation. No one was able to tell us what he really did, or what the money was for, except that it “buys him lunch.” We suggest that you don’t stop here, but instead go to the ticket office up the road, and pay the 2,000 riel entry fee. 2) The going rate for a guide is $5. Pay more, and say goodbye to your money, as they either do not or will not make change. Bring the correct bills. 3) As befitting a remote archaeological zone in a developing nation, the English spoken by the guides is limited, and the information a bit sketchy. Several times, our guide corrected himself in reviewing historical information. Clearly, the guides are learning too, doing their best, and will continue to improve. It is hoped that a guidebook for the site isn’t too many years away from being created.
